Moonarie

Stars are given as follows:
- hollow stars are first ascentionist stars.
- full stars are confirmed stars.

See the Moonarie PDF update for all new routes since the guide (2000) was published. (Updated April 2010)

Index of areas

The Following listing has not been updated for a while so best to check out the PDF above. The following list will be updated in due course.

Dave's Gym

Check out the photo with all these routes marked. Thanks Dave.

SILHOUETTE ARETE 30m 19
(1)10m 15 Start up Moriarty's Revenge. Move left onto slab and belay at horizontals and crack.
(2) 19 20m Climb crack to roof, traverse left to cave then up arete (1 bolt) and finger crack to finish.
Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 26/9/2001

MADAME BUTTERFLY 20m 18
Nice moves up flakes and cracks (description in back of guidebook)
Dave has since added a belay bolt at the top ot this pitch, which also serves Madam Lash.
Dave Bowen

THE SCARLET PIMPERNELL 20m 21
Follow the line of 3 bolts between Madam Butterfly and Crack Up. Move up and right to first bolt, then wander leftwards up the wall trying not to stray into Crack Up.
Dave Bowen, Andrew Temple, John Marshall. 14/4/2001

CRACK UP ARETE 20m 16
The arête right of crack up- 2 bolts. Start up Crack Up and move out to arête and first bolt. Continue up arête.
Dave Bowen, Kym Smith, 13/4/2001

TOO HARD TO GET TO 25m 14
Fun, the black slab right of Lignase. Approach via Crack Up's ledge or the first pitch of Lignase. Starts on ledge with single bolt belay. Up Slab past 2 bolts and flakes to ledge and final headwall.
Matt Heald, Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 18/9/2001

30 ODD FOOT OF GRUNT 10m 19
Behind the Ultra Mega Mega block is short wall split by a ledge at 1/3 height. Climb crack in middle of wall.
David Bowen, John Marshall, Kym Smith 13/4/2001

PAPILLION 20m 20
Black arête at far right hand end of ledge above the first pitch of crack up. Climb up corner then left at horizontal. Finish up arête. 2 bolts and rap chains.
Dave Bowen and Kym Smith 10/4/2001

LAY BACK AND THINK OF FRANK 15m 19
The obvious (wide) crack splitting the upper overhanging wall between Mutation and BlueFinger. Access by abseiling down Mutation to foot wide ledge and sidle across to belay at base of crack.
Steve Kelly, Rob Baker and Frank 1/10/2001


Ultra Mega Mega Block

This is the large block above the routes already described in Dave's Gym. Climb one of those routes to access the following ones.
There is now a abseil anchor above this block.

BOLD ARETE 10m 18
The black arete left of the start of Madame Lash. Boulder up arete and face to gear at 7m, onwards to glory.
Dave Bowen, Alander Mew 7/7/2003

MADAM LASH 20m 23/24
A great effort by Dave. Starts from ledge above Madam Butterfly (Bolt and cam belay). Crank through rooflet past 1st bolt (Stick clipped on first ascent), then up wall past 2 more bolts and a thread (long sling) up higher.
Dave Bowen 18/9/2001
Dave led this with only the original two bolts, but has since added a third to protect a long runout. He also added a belay bolt at the ledge above Madam Butterfly, which also serves this route.

BLOOD SPORT 20m 24/25
Heinous crux! Prominent arête on block above Crack Up. Up arete past 3 bolts then finish straight up wall.
Rob Baker, James Foley 1/7/2001

ULTRA MEGA MEGA MAN 20m 24
Deceptively steep. Awesome moves on awesome holds. Climb the black streak on the overhanging face of the block above Crack Up. 3 bolts.
Rob Baker, James Foley, Vaughan Thomas 1/7/2001


Frannies Point

ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST 25m 15
Start on wall right of Earthbound (franny's point). Hand traverse right to arete then along ledge for 5m. Up left facing corner to the top.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker, John Marshall 17/4/2001

Unnamed 16
Catcher wall, right hand end. Proceed up the slab just left of the corner.
John Marshall, Jim Smith 16/4/2001

LOS VIEJOS 22
Wall facing south next to catcher wall. climb to the bolt and pull through the underclings climb the left tending crack to the top
John Marshall, Tony Barker and Mick ?17/4/2001


Red Tier

NO MISSING LINKS 30m 16
Vague line 8m R of Saltbush Bill's cairn. Up to the shallow alcove at 3m. Exit through the R end of the rooflet, a few steepish metres, then continue more easily. Take a selection of small/medium cams for the numerous horizontals.
Paul Badenoch 8/6/03
Checker's Wall


Checker's Wall

BETTER OUT THAN IN 35m 18
Interesting climbing. Start as for Free For All and continue up that route for 5 m. Move up and left to bolt and continue up arete past 3 more bolts. Continue up to ledge or move up and right to the Mr Ordinary anchors.
Rob Baker, Steve Kelly. 1/10/2001

PAPER, SCISSORS, ROCK 20m 19
Start 2m left of Triple'hot'n'skink. Up thin crack system through overhang at start. Follow on up arête to belay at rings just before first belay on pagoda
Col Ridley, Lee Bishop, May 2004

TRIPLE'HOT'N'SKINK 20m 14
Obvious crack system starting 2m left of Oedipus first pitch. Belay at rings just before first belay on Pagoda.
Thai Te, Col Ridley May 2004

EPICOL 30m 19
Starts 5 m left of Yerba Mate, above first pitch of Medici. Approach via Medici or Machiavelli.
Follow the line of bolts through overhang and on to headwall. Belay at chains (30m to station at start of route, then 30m to ground.)

A TEST FOR ECHO 25m 17
Right side of arete left of Thor Variant. Start of large block, up crack and left over roof. continue up wall right of arete, and then on to arete for final few metres.
Colin Ridley, James Falconer, Easter 2003.

MOONARIE ON A SHOESTRING (aka Bloodnut) 30m 24
After the initial failed bolting attempt, a large rock mysteriously appeared hanging by a shoelace from the stuffed up bolt. Has some reachy sections.
The line of six bolts between Pine Crack and Family Holiday. Climb a couple of metres up Family Holiday, and then up to first bolt. Finish up crack on left side of scoop leading to the ledge on Pine Crack.
James Falconer, Rob Baker. April 2003.
This route can also be done by continuing further up Family Holiday, and joining the route at the second bolt. This avoids the first crux.

THE PASSENGER 40m 25
The cool, slopey, bulgy thing between Pine Crack and Desolation Angels. (1) 16 15m as for pitch 1 of Pine Crack but then move out right to belay anchors on ledge.
(2) 25 25m Cant miss it. Up past 7 bolts and the odd bit of natural protection to double bolt belay.
Rob Baker, Seth Debolt, James Falconer, June 2003

INFIDELITY 30m 20
Climbs a direct line up the right side of checkers wall, linking through two old routes down low, the second half of the route then ascends the orange wall between Angels with Dirty Faces and Trojan. Start up Cross Country Crack (Checkers wall) until at the bottom of the corner. Step right past a bolt and then up to join Angels in the groove. Once on the ledge, the upper wall is accessed by a move diagonally left up Angels, and then climbed past two bolts. Traverse off right before roof, and belay as for Trojan. Either continue up Trojan or climb across to the anchor above Wild Child.
James Falconer, Rob Baker. April 2002

HYPERDRIVE 30m 22
Start just right of Trojan up the crack. Clip the 1st bolt of Wild Child and move leftwards and up through roof. Hard move past bolt, then straight up and finish as for the last moves on Wild Child. DBB
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002
The following routes are located on the recessed orange wall left of Seduction and The Black Hole of Calcutta.

LAYING CABLES 50m 20
(1) 17 25m The crack splitting the black slab between Transferase and Black Hole of Calcutta. Start just left ofTBHOC and at 2 metres move left to crack then up to ledge. Continue up corner to belay on ledge below 1st bolt. (2) 20m 20 Straight up past 3 bolts and finish up scoop (bring sling for horn) moving left to chain/ bollard belay. 50m rap to ground.
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002

SINKING BATTLESHIPS 50m 20
(1) Same as for Laying Cables. (2) Start about 3 m right of the 2nd pitch of Laying Cables. Up though bulges and past bolt to ledge. Finish up crack to bollard/ chain belay.
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002

BEEFCAKE 50 m 23
Steep and pumpy. The arête left of Lost in space. (1) 50 m 23 Start as for
Vulcan but instead of traversing left under the roofs, go straight through
roof and out to arête past 2 bolts. Continue up the right side of arête. (2)
Climb up to ledges under Full Torque and escape off right or traverse over
to Goldinger chains and abseil off.
Rob Baker, Geordie Webb, Jamie Anderson. 8/7/2001

GOLD PLATED CRAB 30m 15
(1) Up Goldfinger to second bolt, traverse left & up crossing Asimov , quicksilver etc to belay in alcove as for Vulcan. (2) Traverse back to Goldfinger's chains.
David Bowen, John Marshall 8/6/2002

PULL MY FINGER 10m 17
The arête left of The Purple Helmet. Sparsely protected. Climb on the right
side of the arête thus avoiding the ordinary looking chimney
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, May 2001

THE PURPLE HELMET 10m 16
Perfect rock. Situated on the black wall left of Kiss my Aura Dora and
opposite Asimov. Start on spacious ledge behind Asimov. Up corner in middle
of face. A cam at 3m is the only worthwhile gear.
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, May 2001


Gargoyle Wall

COURT JESTER 30m 20
(1) 17m 20 Left of Corkscrew Retribution, up wall past 2 bolts and gear to Corkscrew's ledge. (2) 13m 20 Up steep wall left of Corkscrew's chimney.
Dave Bowen, Alex Mew 8/4/2004

REGICIDE 33m 19/20
(1) 18m 19 As for pitch 1 of the Prince. (2) Move left off ledge onto ramp and up steep crack. Move left over bulge to horizontal breaks and up final steep crack.
Dave Bowen and Alex Mew 26/4/2002
I've added the star to this cause it looks cool, and Dave won't - objections? JF

CAMILLA PARKER BOWLES 33m 15
'Beside the Prince but ignored by everyone for years'
(1) 18m 15 Up Prince for the first 2 metres, then move right and up the wall past a bolt and pockets to flake near arête. Continue up arête on big horizontals. (2) 15m 13 As for pitch 2 of the Prince
Alexander Mew and Dave Bowen 26/4/2002

COLD SHOULDER DIRECT 15m 22
Don't go left for original, go straight up. Heaps better than original.
James Falconer, Geordie Webb, Easter 2004.


Low Dive Gully

50 m above the rainwater tank just off the track is a short wall with some bolts. Routes described L-R.

GRAHAM'S ROUTE 13m 18
Start in crack, up and left to 1st bolt, straight up passing another bolt on small holds. Alexander Mew, Dave Bowen 6/5/03.

MUM'S THE WORD 15m 18
Up small crack and flake to a stance under the roof, crank through roof on pocket and up brushed head wall. Dave Bowen,
Anna Brooks and John Marshall 18/4/03.

LILLIPUTIAN JOURNET 15m 19
Fingery moves past bolt, through roof at little corner and up headwall on brushed line. Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 14/4/03.

PICK POCKET 15 m 14
Arete right of Lilliputian Journey. Up arete on pockets to scoop and more pockets, crank on through to final moves. Take your number 4 Camelot! Anna Brooks, Alexander Mew and Duncan Love 20/4/03.

CI 14 m 12 (RBKA)
Starts 3m R of chimney below 2nd of two cracks, grasp the ears and climb to stance at 3m, find the easiest way up on mossy arete between cracks. Duncan Love, Mulvenny 19/4/03.

THE PUGILIST 10m 19
Immediately right of CI is a short wall with 3 horizontals, punch your way straight up the middle of the wall on these. Dave Bowen, Rod Mulvenny 20/4/03.
Ramparts and Flying Buttress


Southern Descent Gully

BEGGER'S BANQUET 15m 15
Starts on a ledge up and right of the water tank. Up LH corner, onto orange slab and pull through roof. Follow thin seem and steep wall to finsh.
Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 6/4/2001


Flying Buttress Area

SHE SMELLS LIKE COCONUTS 60m 18
Start 5m left of Chicken Crimpy at the base of right hand water mark.
1) 20m 18 Up narrow water mark (past bolt at 4m) then nice moves lead to belay cave.
2) 20m 17 Straight up through weakness (past left hand roof) , veering left to 2nd roof corner then left around on to sloping 'nose'. Take a deep breath, move up through small roof into bottomless corner, then right onto arete. Up and veer right through orange rock to large roof, then hand traverse right and up to substantial cave/ledge.
3) 20m 14 Step left and climb slab to notch in summit boulders.
November 1 2000 Jamie Anderson, Geordie Webb alt
I think this is probably pretty hard for 18. First pitch is committing. Route finding can be a bit difficult on the second pitch as Pat and I found. There is some really sandy nasty stuff a bit to the right, so if you get in to that (as we did) you're off route. The correct line is all good rock. - JF

BIRD OF PREY 25m 21
The wall perpendicular to the But Holland face on Flying Buttress. Start on
ledge next to the tree. Start up the initial crack and then head straight up
the wall past 3 bolts to finish at the Vortex belay.
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, Easter 2001
A number of people who've done this recently have ended up going right in to the crack at the top. Don't do this. Go straight up the wall.

The following two climbs are on the steep buttress down and left of flying buttress with small roof near the bottom.

LOADED BOWEL 25m 23
The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress. Start about 15 left of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground).
Rob Baker, Steve Pollard October 2002-10-08

LEGENDARY STRONGMEN 25m 25
Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt.
Stuart Wythe, Malcom Matheson, late 2003. (HB denies responsibility for the name.)

GAMBLER 17m 25
The face buttress left of Flying Buttress. Scramble up to crack 2m left of Flying buttress. Up crack to ledge. Then step right around small roof and up onto face, keeping just left of the arête. Skirt around base of the pillar to large ledge below But Holland is a Country wall. DBB/Rap chains (40m to ground).
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas October 2002
The next two climbs start on a ledge as for pitch 2 of "BirdBrain".

FROZEN IN TIME 25m 21 Up slab left of "birdbrain's" corner to overlap , traverse right (bolt) up small corner to a belay on ledge .escape to chains on arête.
David Bowen and John Marshall 11/8/2002

SWOOPING PTERODACTYLS 75m 22
Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4 bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past 3 more bolts, belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past 2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge. (50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible)
David Bowen, John Marshall 14/7/2002 (both led) (2) & (3) 10/8/2002.
Stars are for the first pitch. This has been confirmed by a number of people.

CAUGHT SHORT 60m 17
The crack and face between These Eagles and Icarus. (1) 17 40m Start as for These Eagles and Icarus and once over initial roof had straight up to scoopy crack and horizontals to spacious ledge. (2) 15 20m Move up and right around right end of roof and straight up the wall above to top. Scramble off.
Rob Baker, Dave Cebel, July 2003.

WAXEN WINGS 25 m 16
A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge.
Dave Bowen, John Marshall 23/4/03.

MICRO ADVENTURE 22m 19
A nice wall of solid grampians like rock. Start 15 m right of Ultion, up on a ledge just right of Cut Lunch. (the tree in the latter's description has since fallen over and died.) climb the groove as for Ciao Professore and step left onto the face and up right. Move back left to a small ledge at horizontal break. Up left side of face past a bolt, then back right to climb chimney/pillar.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker 20/10/01

CIAO PROFESSORE 25m 17
Start 15m right of Ultion. Up groove to base of wall and right onto detached flake. Up to incipient groove crack whickhleads to the ramp below the triangular roof. Up crack to left for 5m , then traverse right to small roof. Step up right to arete.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker June 2001


Jaffle Wall

SCOOP THE POOL 35m 19
Nice climbing on the major arete right of Ultion, joining Generosity. Start at the left end of Jaffle Wall. Start up toxic shock, the crack through the right side of the scoop. Move left across the scoop with 2 bolts and around onto the very base of the arete with instant exposure, passing a third bolt.. Up the arete, joining Generosity at half height. Up to a DBB and abseil.
Tony Barker and Mike Broadbent 16/4/2001

GENEROSITY (already written up)
A really good climb, but better done by starting up Hold Tight (ie. Up Ultion briefly then right into niche and right again to arete). Though it is 55m it can be climbed as one pitch with simul-climbing of the first and last 5m, both of which are easy.
The Lob Off Boys (Hally and Daishy)

NIGHT OF 1000 JAFFLES 30m 18
Start as for Night of the Long Jaffles, about 8m right of Toxic Shock. Climb up and left onto the line, and up into a pod shaped scoop (this is common to NOTLF and Toxic Shock). Exit this straight up and move leftwards under the overlap and onto the steep slab above. Move up and left to Generosity's belay. Abseil off.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker 16/4/2001

SNAFFLED 45m 17
(1) 35m 17 The centre of the upper section of the wall. Start from top of Alien Country or Goodvibes Direct. Climb easy ledges and walls to below roof. Up diagonal crack right through roof and on to ledge. (2) 10m 12.Traverse right to corner and up to top.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker Easter 2003.

GREEN BLOODED RASTAFARIAN 25m 17
Start as for Orion but traverse right 3m before Whirlybird. Traverse to arete and up past BR to alcove. Shane Mitchell, Belinda Coad, Easter 2001.
Shane reckons this is worth a star. Pat, Rob and Vaun repeated it and say its 16.

SHADOWBOXING Shane has freed Shadowtime at grade 18.
Shane also replaced the slings in the Remnant belay alcove with bolts and chains. Nice one.

DWARFISM 19 40m
The obvious arête left of Spartacus. From the first belay ledge of Spartacus, up the left wall for a few metres then move left to the arête. Continue up arête to big ledge. For descent, traverse over to rap chains on Sweeping Statement.
Rob Baker, James Falconer May 2003
There are now chains on ledge at the top of this route, above a project on left arete.

KNOW YOUR ENEMY 50m 25
Climbs the buttress just left of Duke. (1) 30m 21 Start as for Duke. Move left at roof to bolt then up past another bolt and up to ledge to double bolt belay. (2) 20m 25 Up past 6 bolts to rap chains (50m rap to ground).
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, Vaughan Thomas May 2003

JEZEBEL SPIRIT 20 m 20
Arete R of Pitch 2 of Strangers In A Strange Land. Climb either this or Falling Monkeys to SSL's belay ledge. Up ramp past 2 bolts, move around arete past 3 more bolts and up to big ledge DBB. 45 m rappel to ground. Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 13/4/03.

IGUANA THREORY 35 m 23
Climbs the wall between Toblerone and Mystery Elephant Ride. Climbs corner for 2m's step left at two distinctive grass tufts, up cracks onto wall proper, thin climbing past 3 bolts and up crack to the huge flake (bolt) continue up wall passing 2 more bolts, rejoin Toblorone at its 2nd last bolt, up to chains. 40 m rappel. Dave Bowen 21/4/03.

UNREAL 54m 26
Goes up the middle of the right wall of the Great Chimney. (1) 27m 25 Start at the orange corner left of Reality Factor, Wild Oscar etc. Up corner to ledge where 1st bolt is carefully stick clipped.(Make sure it cannot unclip and/or back it up with cams 2m down lower). Hectic climbing up to horizontal. Right along this to arete (green alien or equivalent). Up arete passing 2 carrots to meet RF at the roof. Hanging belay as for that route. (2) 27m 26 Traverse 1m into RF's second pitch then blast straight up wall above passing 2 FH's and 2 carrots. Finish at abseil station at big boulder chockstone.
50m abseil to ground
Rack: Bolt plates, single rack of cams to 4 inches (doubles up to #1 handy) and wires of course!
NB could be led as one mega pitch.
Gareth Llewellin & Douglas Hockly (alt) 15th Jan 2004

The next route goes up the middle of the imposing overhanging orange Guru Wall, near the northern end of the Ramparts. It was formerly an incomplete Stuart Williams project, but a good effort by Steve has now produced . . .

MEDITATIONS 27
Climbs the amazing diagonal rib on Guru Wall. Start as for Buzzard Arete. Up past the first 3 bolts on that route then up and right along the rib past Fists and Toys to finish at the hanging belay on Buzzard arête (numerous bolts).
Steve Pollard, October 2002.


Calitris Corner

TOO LATE TO STOP HEATHER MOONDANCING 50m 18
A good long combo route. Start up Heather, move right to small stance, continue trending right and up to 'Too Late To Stop Now', then straight up wall to finish at chains left of Moondance.
Dave Bowen, John Marshall, Oct 2003

MOON UNIT 40m 17
The line just right of Moondance. Start 2m right of Moondance and continue up wall with thin protection until a few metres below roof. Continue up Vibrator or traverse left to Moondance wall chains above Be Stiff.
Rob Baker, Seth Debolt July 2003

RIPL 60m 16
(1) 16 30m As for Rush pitch 1. (2) Move left to the end of ledge and onto slab. Straight up middle of slab thru acres of moss avoiding Earthspan and other Rush variants.
Dave Bowen and John Marshall 30/3/2002
With variant Dave Bowen and Kym Smith 29/9/2001

HEADS I WIN, TAILS YOU LOSE 25m 20
Start as for You Bet, head up left on to red wall, then straight up to top on horizontals.
Alander Mew, Dave Bowen 8/4/04

TWO UP 25m 19
Start as for You Bet. Traverse right to a red scoop. Straight up this past a bolt to top.
Dave Bowen, John Marshall 12/7/2003


Great Wall Area

EAT OR DIE 45m 22
Follow flake between Downwind of Angles and Languish in Anguish for 15m (four bolts), before veering left and finishing as for Downwind.
Rob Baker and James Falconer, August 2002.

TWM SHON CATTI 25m 24
Flake between Robbing Hood and Languish, joining RH at about its third bolt.
James Falconer, Rob Baker, Anzac Day 2004

DROWNING DIRECT 25m 29
Starting part way up block, follow bolts up and left to belay as for Against the Wind.(see Guide Book)
Steve Pollard July 2003

SHATTERED 35m 17
The black wall right of Finale. Start up Finale's chimney to tree. Step right onto wall and climb the centre, with move right to arete at mid height for gear. Take thin tape for small bollard runner on upper section. Belay at large sloping ledge. Move across right to Body Free Fall's belay bolts and abseil off. A desperate direct start would be possible.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker Easter 2003.

DEVIL'S ADVOCATE 50m 22
Starts at the tree on the right side of the Little Great Wall.
(1) 15m Up the friable scary flakes to the ledge on right wall level with top of tree.
(2) Quality climbing for the entire pitch. Up past 2 bolts to rooflet, then up past 2 more bolts to chains. 50m DBB rappel to ground.
James Falconer, Rob Baker, Ben Carrick. Frocktober 2004

FROCKS AND SHORT SHORTS 25m 21
Starts from same ledge as Aphrodite direct finish. The left-most line on the wall with 3 bolts.
Rob Baker, James Falconer, Ben Carrick. Frocktober 2004


Northern Group

SUPER COOLER 42m 19
Up 16 With a Bullet till level with base of corner. Step left onto arête and climb up steep juggy terrain to a ledge below a large scoop (bolt here). Balance up scoop to another steepening then over small roof and the final wall.
Dave Bowen and Alex Mew 26/4/2002

BULLET PROOF 42m 21
Starts on pocketed wall left of Fatal Flame. Boulder up to 1st bol, up and right passing 3 bolts and natural gear. Continue up to join 16 With A Bullet at its belay. Straight up into V-groove past 2 bolts. Exit left and finish up 16 WAB's final wall crack to a DBB. Dave Bowen, Alex Mew 10/7/2003

BARE KNUCKLE BOXING 22m 16
Start of ledge 8m right of El Fresco, in alcove, capped with roof at 3m. Traverse out right side of alcove, under roof. Straight up to top.
Geordie Webb, James Falconer Easter 2004.

BARE FOOT FETISH 22m 12
Start in large capped corner under arête, 10m left of Phadera. Up left wall of corner, and on to top.
Geordie Webb, James Falconer Easter 2004.

ALL TORQUE 15m 21
Finger crack through small roof at 5m between Bare Foot Fetish and Phadera.
James Falconer, Geordie Webb, Easter 2004.


Crag X

WITYATI 16m 14
Crack between Capricious Folly and Treebeard, beginning at 5m (abseil in). Finish up slot. Needs a start. In fact, if you can boulder the start, continue up one of the impressive walls either side of the crack! Paul Badenoch 10/6/01

FLAKE OF FEAR 20m 23
Line up wall right of Wityati, with questionable flake a couple of metres above horizontal. Done in excelent style without the need to place a bolt.
Steve Pollard, Kate Howell, May 2004.

AKURRA 18m 18
Begins among dead trees 5m R of Great Rip Roaring Climb. A fun start (have a #00 cam ready), then up L-bearing line to the ledge. Cross GRRC and climb small LH corner. Paul Badenoch 2/9/01

WALPINA 19m 17
Line beginning 4m R of Akurra and 4m L of Unbridled Passion. When the rock deteriorates, step R to join UP and thus to the ramp. Move 1m R and finish up the wall (juggy but runout near the top). Take a #00 cam. Paul Badenoch 2/9/01

UNNAMED
Takes sickle flake 15m right of descent gully. Start behind Yakka, head right around flake, when it has curved up to vertical, step left over it and continue up wall above.
Steve Pollard, Kate Howell, May 2004.

Wonder Wall
At far right end of Crag X, just before it dissapears is a small wall about 12m x 10m, with five lines on it. From left to right:

Grrrrrrrhhhhh!!!!! 9m 13
Ryan Graney, Steve Pollard, Kate Howell, Daryll Siedell, James Falconer

UNNAMED 10m 14
Daryll Siedell, Ryan Graney, Steve Pollard, Kate Howell, James Falconer

UNNAMED 10m 17
Steve Pollard, Ryan Graney, Kate Howell, Daryll Siedell, James Falconer

JAY-ONE 11m 14
James Falconer, Ryan Graney, Steve Pollard, Kate Howell, Daryll Siedell

KAY-ONE 10m 12
Kate Howell, Ryan Graney, Steve Pollard, Daryll Siedell, James Falconer


The Promised Land

Into the Heart of Darkness 52m 19
The line in the centre of the S face of The Ogre, between El Diablo and Cold and Bold. Good rock. Begin as for ED, but step R onto the face when 3m below the top of the pedestal. Fire up the pure finger crack (crux) to the main line. Up to a (belay) ledge and continue.
Paul Badenoch 3/10/99

A pitch has been added to A Symphony of Terror:
(2) 20m 16 Delicately L towards the arête and up to the cave. Protection is spaced.
Paul Badenoch 3/10/99

Mea Culpa 50m 14
Begins about 50m R of Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun, around the point. The climb passes R of a large triangular roof.
(1) 25m 14 The groove just R of the line for 4m, then step L and up wall cracks to belay R of the roof.
(2) 25m 13 Awkward moves up and L to the crack, then easily to the top.
Paul Badenoch, Des Norman 15/4/01


Southern Crags

Mutation RHF 15m 9
Branch out of the corner into the crack.
Paul Badenoch, Des Norman 13/4/01